Most people who try Pinotage associate it with a barbecue smokey nose, and some even extend this to other South African reds such as Shiraz. I recently had a lively discussion about this with a few South African winemakers and estate owners…over beer and gin & tonic!

First was to define the smokiness and burnt rubber. Both Yngvildt Steytler from Kaapzicht and Eben Sadie from the Sadie Family agreed that smokiness is a positive term while burnt rubber is most certainly not! Unfortunately, the majority of consumers are not that precise and they often interchange these two terms depending on the level of the aroma. And, to be honest, there are some who actually like the ‘burnt rubber’ character.

Yngvildt believes that the ‘off’ flavour actually results from a winery that observes proper hygiene practices and she could be right, as some critics attribute the ‘burnt rubber’ smell to brettanomyces, a yeast spoilage that occurs in ‘dirty’ wineries.

Eben, however, suggested the burnt rubber taste comes from a sulphide compound that may develop during the winemaking process, but will disappear after a certain period of ageing. He reckons some producers rush to bottle and release the wines too early, hence the problem.

Wines of South Africa (WOSA) commissioned research to find the cause of the ‘burnt rubber’ smell a few years ago, but the result was inconclusive. Scientists found no specific link between the aroma and any particular grape variety, region or vintage, so it’s still a mystery to date.

A wine-loving friend of mine (by no means an expert) reckons it is the result of the bush fires that have occurred throughout history and continue to happen pretty much every year around the Cape area. The burnt fynbos (native bush) finds its way into the soil and is absorbed by the vine roots and reflected in the wine. This is conceivable as obvious smokiness was found, for example, in Australia’s McLaren 2009 vintage after the bush fire that occurred before harvest.

South Africa’s ‘burnt rubber’ issue will surely continue to be debated in the years to come. Right now, for those who think burnt rubber is Pinotage, try these examples and think again:

Kaapzicht Steytler Pinotage 2007: Sweet fruit aroma and a spicy nose. Soft tannin. Yngvildt believes there is good hygiene in the cellar. Available from Kingdom Vineyard.

Scali Pinotage 2009: Red fruits and brambles, and a smooth tannin.

Kanonkop Pinotage 2005: Rich and complex with black fruits and spices and a hint of coffee (rather than burnt coffee) on the back palate. Available from Northeast.

By Tersina Shieh, Marketer turned winemaker.

To read more, visit Tersina’s blog at Tersinawinejournal

The Réserve RJ Fleming Cuvée Excellence wine is a new collector’s item wine that will be making its debut in Hong Kong next year.

The Rouge Cuvée Fleming is a 2005 vintage made of 70% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 10% Vieux Carignan from the region of Luberon.  Interestingly, the wine is produced in collaboration with member of the British banking magnate, Roddie Fleming, and organic wine pioneer, Château La Canorgue.

This tasting has been rescheduled for Jan 2011, details to be provided shortly.

Morgan & Joubert, importers of this wine, will be hosting a sneak preview tasting of this wine which is only available in magnum size, 1.5 litre collector’s box set next week on 21 December in Central. If you’re interested in attending this exclusive tasting, please RSVP to rsvp@winebuzz.hk

Château la Canorgue is a small family winery in the village of Bonnieux in Rhône Valley, Provence, where the Ridley Scott movie starring Russell Crowe, A Good Year, was filmed. Château la Canorgue has garnered a quiet following having won rave reviews by Wine Spectator, Cuisine et vin de France and wine guides like Dussert Gerber, Gault Millau.

The Château produces award-winning wines like the gold medals at the “Concours General Agricole de Paris” and at the “Concors des vins biologiques” in Paris. Wine Spectator has named Jean-Pierre Margan (pictured above), owner and winemaker of Château la Canorgue, the Best Vigneron (winemaker) of the whole Rhône Valley.

Finding the right wine for everyday Cantonese meals like dim sum can prove difficult because it has to take on an array of foods like seafood, meats, vegetables, sauces, herbs, spices and starches…often all at the same time!

Based on this, many experts propose white wines but, thanks to my recent experience with Filippo Chia, a second generation winemaker and owner of Tuscan Castello Romitorio who came to HK to host one of the food and wine-paired events organized by m.a.x. concepts, Cottage Vineyards and myself – I would like to propose 3 versatile red wines which, dare I say, may work even better!

reknowned artist and winemaker Sandro Chia (L)  Filippo Chia (R)

Castello Romitorio Morellino di Scansano DOCG 2007 (85%Sangiovese/15%Cab. Sauvignon): Brilliant clear garnet, nose of fresh flowers, earth and plum. On the palate, bitter cherries end in a steady silky finish. This wine pairs well with (1) pea sprouts stir-fried in garlic (2) mushroom, beef or pork rice noodle wraps (Cheung Fun) with a light soya sauce (3) steamed prawns dipped in soy sauce with chilis and (4) fish steamed with ginger and green onion, bathing in hot oil and soya sauce.

Castello Romitorio Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2007 (Sangiovese Grosso): Ruby red, the wine carries a soft richness that balances the bouquet of red berries, tobacco and violets. Its beautiful structure balances with juicy viscosity and persistent finish, pairing well with (1) any of the above while accentuating (2) the juiciness of a clay pot braised duck with mushrooms and (3) fried glutinuous rice with Chinese winter sausages.

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004 (Sangiovese Grosso): King of the Tuscan reds, this is the epitome of Sangiovese. Boasting 92 points – Robert Parker and 93 points – Wine Spectator, Filippo’s wine has a bouquet of dried flowers and berries, velvety rich with balanced tannins and a long finish. This wine pairs beautifully with (1) slow cooked clay pot lamb and (2) beef dry-fried in a dark soy sauce with green onion, mushrooms and flat noodles (Gan Chow Ngau Ho).

Damon Yuen is a Certified Sommelier and Court of Master Sommeliers. He is a Wine & Spirits Educator, Writer and Consultant with over 27 years of experience in the Hong Kong food and beverage sector. He regularly teaches at the Chinese University of Hong Kong and PEAK VTC and has his own wine blog.

He can be contacted at 9037 9589 or via email: damon_yuentks@yahoo.com.hk

Whether you know it or not, there’s a lot of information on every single wine label.

From that little piece of paper alone, you can learn many things about what you’re about to drink. Many wines, for instance, will have an Appellation d’Origine Controlee, which shows the region where the wine was made. Often, not just the name of the winery but the name of the wine seller (or champagne house) will also be displayed. This begins to tell the story of the wine, and every vintage tells its own tale.

Decoding the information is important. Often, the wine label will say where the wine was bottled – if the work was done at the winery or an outside merchant, for instance. If the label does not specifically name where the bottling took place, it’s likely the work was done through a merchant.

The label on a bottle of wine or champagne will also display what style it is – if it’s “Blanc,” for instance, it’s made from chardonnay grapes. By learning how to read a wine bottle, you’ll know exactly what sort of grapes made the vintage, if the bottling was done at the winery itself and at which vineyard the wine was made.

For more information on reading wine labels, use these resources:

• The Wine Buyer
• Wall Street Journal
• Wine Lovers’ Page

Here is a 60-second look at how to tell the difference from Old World to New World ones:

and Must Love Wine teaches you about Italian wine labels:

Education is key to all new wine drinkers and lovers, and here at Winebuzz.hk we want to be able to help guide you in the right direction. Here is a round-up of links to recent wine notes for you:

How to order the right wine:

Know-your-double trouble. Syrah and shiraz are made from the same grape. So are pinot gris and pinot grigio. And fume blanc and sauvignon blanc.

The name changes depending on where they’re grown. Try not to be That Guy Who Says, “I don’t like shiraz. Let’s try a syrah instead.”

Communication will help you get the wine you want:

Ask the restaurant wine expert questions: Wine-focused restaurants educate their staff about the wines on the list. They often sample the wines so they can understand how to sell them. Ask your waitperson if they have any suggestions; this can sometimes help with your choice. Always keep in mind that everyone has different likes and dislikes, so you can point them in the right direction by stating, “What do you suggest for a big, bold red wine?” as opposed to “What is your favorite red”?

The smoothness versus the texture of wine:

Most of the time, wine periodicals focus on the flavors and aromas but neglect texture, which is crucial in evaluating wine. That astringent texture comes from the Tannins. This substance is found in the stems, bloom of the skin, and pips of the grapes. A wine cannot age well without the presence of Tannins, though they can also impart a somewhat rough and dry taste when the wine is young.

Handpicked wine brings yet another Carbernet Sauvignon winner from the Peter Douglas Signature Series wine to Hong Kong. Peter Douglas is one of the most respected winemakers in Australia. Former Wynns Coonawarra Estate Winemaker, Peter is an expert when it comes to producing deep crimson almost black Cabernet.

Based on the success of the 2005 Coonawarra Carbenet Sauvignon wine which was nominated for George MacKay Memorial Trophy from the Australian Wine & Brandy Corporation, the 2006 is even more complex, with a rich ripe flavour profile.

How much?

• HK$1288

Tasting Note:

• Colour: Dense crimson almost black
• Nose: Blackcurrents, blueberries with nuances of peppermint and cedar, dark chocolate and mocha
• Palate: rich and soft with lashing of cassis and raspberry

Where to buy?

Rare & Fine Wines at:

• Shop L6, Lobby, The Bank of East Asia Building, 10 Des Voeux Road, Central.
• Shop B, G/F, The Putman, 202, Queen’s Road, Central. Hong Kong
• Shop 11. G/F Hankow Centre, 5-15 Hankow Road, TST. Kowloon.

Sens Wine Cellar, a Hong Kong wine distributor that focuses on bringing in Australia boutique wines made from older vines to Hong Kong is the distributor for Tim Smith Reserve Shiraz. This is a wine with great fitness and texture. Tim Smith’s 2005 Reserve Shiraz comes from 2 vineyards in Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. Made from 50+year old vines, this is a more intense wine with aromas of dark plums and spicy fruits with cedar notes from being aged in French Oak barrels.

How much?

HK$680 per bottle

We’ve arrange a special discount for Winebuzz.hk readers. Tell them that you read about it from Winebuzz.hk and you will get it for HK$480

Where to buy?

Gourmet Online – Romm 2103B-C, 21/F, Nan Fung Centre, 264-298 Castle Peak Road, Tsuen Wan.
Tel: 3595 0899 or call Felix at 3678 0231

California Grapes International is an international wine sales and distribution company that focuses exclusively on California wines, working with wineries from all of California’s major wine producing regions they plan to launch a retail store concept in Hong Kong sometime next year. So if you’re a fan of California’s finest, keep an eye on this space for news. We would like to highlight 2 excellent bottles from this company.

BUMGARNER WINES
At HOFEX, we caught up with Brian Bumgarner, winemaker and owner of Bumgarner wines in El Dorado, California. Handmade in a very small batches, its prized ’05 Cabernet Sauvignon is a wine that is characteristic of the El Dorado appellation – a full dark cherry and cocoa aroma accompanied by smooth tannins, making it a great pair with any cuts of beef or lamb.

ROBLEDO WINES
Another wine worth mentioning is the 2006 Pinot Blanc from Robledo Family Winery. The Robledo family went from working at the vineyards to eventually owning 14 vineyards and producing its own estate wines. The 2006 Pinot Blanc we tasted was loaded with aromas of ripe melon and sweet honey with a light and crisp finish, a wine perfect for accompanying light cheeses and any chicken dishes.

For purchases, contact Ross Chan at (852) 9197-1043 or r.chan@cagrapes.com

Xtexce wine is organizing a special wine tasting at Oliva di Oliva Cucina Italiana on April 10, 2009. There is no charge for this tasting but RSVP is required, so book your seats early.

Details:

• When: 10 April 2009
• Start: 6:30pm – 8pm
• Where: Oliva di Oliva Cucina Italiana
• Basement, Podium Plaza, 5 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
  (MTR Exit. Take the Escalator exit and look to your right on the way up)
• RSVP: xtex@xtexce.com

What’s being served?

• White:
  Tasari – Catarretto (2007)
  Slight straw yellow, fine nose and intense color with obvious
  notes of citrus. Fresh and elegant taste.

• Terre di Gumara – Viognier (2007)
  Great bouquet with fresh and intense fragrances. A complex wine that surprises with rich flavours.

• Reds:
  Ronci di Nepi – Sangiovese, 2007
  This 100% Sangiovese is a easy to drink fruity forward wine similar in style
  to a young Chianti. Perfect as a starting wine.

• Ronci di Nepi – Veste Porpora, 2006 (Super Tuscan)
  Brilliant ruby red color, moderate transparency. Intense, clean and pleasing aromas that start with hints of black cherry and plum followed by aromas of toasted wood, vanilla, blueberry, tobacco and carob.

• La Giaretta — Amarone Classico, 2005
  Ruby red color wine with an intense bouquet of cherries and Morello cherries preserved in alcohol. This is a robust bodied wine with a particularly well-balanced flavor. It goes well with braised beef, juicy main courses and mature and spicy cheese varieties.

Photo from NYTimes

Taste the Pontet Canet 1999 at Enoteca. This wine scored 88points from Wine Advocate. For those of you interested to taste the Pontet Canet and Branaire Ducru,  register with Enoteca before 5 March.

What’s being served?

CH.PONTET CANET 1999
“Licorice, creme de cassis, and toasty oak are typical of this classic Pauillac. It is full-bodied, with excellent sweetness, grip, structure, and more tannin than many 1999s possess. This structured, muscular effort will require patience. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2016.” – The Wine Advocate- WA:88pts

CH.BRANAIRE DUCRU 1999
Taste: This is a beautifully perfumed effort revealing scents of graphite, lead pencil shavings, blueberries, raspberries, and black currants. The wine is rich, layered, medium-bodied, pure, and elegant. It is a complex St.-Julien with good flavor depth, soft tannin, and unobtrusive acidity. Drink it now and over the next 12-15+ years.

How Much?

• HK$50 per glass (70ml)

Details

• Friday, March 6, 2009
• 5:00pm – 7:00pm
• WINE SHOP ENOTECA, Shop 218, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Road, Central.