Award-winning executive pastry chef Herve Lemonon from the Cake Shop at the Mandarin Macau makes a mean macaron. This time around, we’re pairing his delicious coffee macaron with port.

Niepoort’s 10 Years Old White Port is distinct for its kind, made in a classic style with a long oxidative ageing process and good extract as a result of extended skin maceration. Added with grape brandy and then aged in large oak vats, this quickly follows by ageing in traditional oak pipes for a period of between 7 and 15 years.

The port is golden in colour and exhibits a complex aroma of dried fruits, orange peel and dried figs, as well as walnuts and roasted almonds with a bit of floral. On the palate it is very fine and balanced, with a vibrant acidity and good structure to balance off its sweet character.

Like good partners should, Chef Hervé’s coffee macarons and Niepoort’s 10 Years Old White Port bring out the best in each other. A taste of the chocolatey coffee macarons helps draw out the port’s mild floral aroma. And the subtle nuttiness and traces of acidity in the port nicely complement and balance the bitter sweetness of the cookies. Biting into the macaron makes you want another sip, which in turn makes you want another bite of macaron till you’re trapped in a delightful feedback loop. We advise you to go slow and make it last!

Source: Macau.com

Where?

Coffee Macarons from

• The Cake Shop at Grand Lapa
• 956 Av. Da Amizade, Macau
• Tel: +853 8793 3500

White Port from Adege Royale

• www.adegaroyale.com

Winebuzz.hk contributor Tersina Shieh gives us the lowdown.

No doubt you have heard someone (probably a westerner) saying that off-dry wines go well with spicy Asian dishes because they “tone down” the spiciness to make the food more palatable. But hang on a second – is that what we Chinese (or Asians, especially South Asians!) want – to eat spicy dishes without that fiery or numbing sensation we all know and love?

We had lunch with Casey McClellan from Seven Hills Winery in Washington last year, and paired each of his three wines – Tempranillo, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon – with the same dish: chicken’s feet in black bean sauce. Each pairing gave a very different impression. The Tempranillo was subtle but the sauce brought out the fruitiness in the wine, making it livelier but not overpowering. The Syrah had a spicy character which was accentuated by the peppery and spicy flavours of the dish, while the Cabernet was in perfect harmony with the chicken’s feet, like a contented old couple! All three wines matched the dish, but your ultimate choice would depend on how you like your spicy food.

And while personal preference is certainly a factor, there are still some basic guidelines for food and wine matching. Their styles can be contrasting (sweet vs spicy, acidic vs oily), but their intensity and body (richness) have to be compatible, otherwise one will overpower the other (check out Flavour Colours for more elaboration). We decided to run a spicy food/wine pairing exercise recently and here’s the verdict:

Chicken in spicy sauce (口水雞) with a ChileanCarmen Gran Reserve Chardonnay 2009: Although the wine is medium bodied with pronounced fruit, the dish was just a notch too heavy for the wine. The wine tasted thin and lost the fruit aroma after the food.

Hunan deep-fried prawns in chilli sauce withChablis Domaine Laroche St. Martin 2009: Again the food was too heavy for the wine. It was actually better matched with the Chilean Carmen Gran Reserve Chardonnay 2009.

Sautéed mutton with chilli in casserole with Chateau Croix Mouton Bordeaux Superior 2009: Unfortunately (or fortunately?), the food was too subtle (by mutton standards) and the wine was not intense enough. This mismatch turned out to be inoffensive but unsensational.

So, Winebuzz afficionados: what are your thoughts on this delectable debate?

By Tersina Shieh, marketer turned winemaker.

To read more, visit Tersina’s blog at Tersinawinejournal

The first solo project Yardbird by Matt Abergel of Zuma and New York City’s Masa has recently opened its doors in Sheung Wan.

Chances are you’ve already heard of it, as according to CnnGo and hordes of satisfied diners it is Hong Kong’s newest “it restaurant.” The concept is simple and refreshingly so. Good chicken parts on a stick yakitori done right along with some Izakaya favorites and all served up in a casual, fun atmosphere. However, simplicity aside, these guys take yakitori very seriously. That and the whole experience is elevated by an impressive wine list including Sake, Shochu and yummy cocktails.

We sat down with Beverage Manager Elliot Faber to discuss the pleasures and pitfalls of finding the perfect wine for yakitori.

Hi Elliot, tell us a little about yourself.

Matt Abergel and I are childhood friends from Canada and we have always wanted to work together. Where Matt was into food, I immersed myself into the world of wine. I ran an Italian wine store for three years, as well as put on an international wine festival, coordinated wine events and even developed wine and dining packages for Visa.

What is the concept behind Yardbird?

The concept is simple: essentially modern yakitori. We all have a lot of experience with traditional Japanese izakayas and yakitori places, and we all have a passion for Japanese food and culture. Our chickens are sourced fresh from the most eco-conscious farmers in Hong Kong and slaughtered for us everyday. Even the charcoal is sourced especially from a specific tree in Japan.

What are the challenges of pairing wine with yakitori?

First, yakitori makes up about 50% of the menu at Yardbird. Japanese flavours tend to be very simple and obvious: sweet, sour, umami, maybe a little bitter. So, I tend to select wines that are very simple and can really set the stage for the food. Although I have a passion for Italian wines first and foremost, I come from a North American wine perspective and, as such, want to use more and more wines that are difficult to find elsewhere in Hong Kong. Also, I include lots of Sakes and Shochu (rice liquor).

One of the most fun parts is the Sake and Shochu. I’ve been to Japan so many times, and I worked as a brand manager for an artisanal Sake maker in Canada, so I love the opportunity of educating people about the world of Sake and Shochu.

So, what can we expect from a drinking experience at Yardbird?

You’ll get a very casual, friendly and informal education. After all, that’s what it’s all about.

• Yardbird is open Monday- Saturday from 6 until late.
• Yarbird, 33-35 Bridges St.Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Tel: 2547 9273
• Or, find them on the web.

Wine vs Food is a new show that takes wine to a local level – all the way to the Fo Tan food market mixing Merlots with BBQ Pork!

Creator Greg Lok has taken the quirk of the Food Channel’s shows and mashed it up with Gary Vaynerchuk’s love of wine into a fusion of fun and education: Hong Kong style. We give it props for having a wine challenge between two Hong Kong wine merchants, where the loser has to eat 2 fried pigeon heads!

The show is in English, with a Chinese version coming soon – it’s an interesting take on creating a more street-level appreciation for wine mixed with things Hong Kong people eat on a daily basis.

The 15-minute pilot episode is embedded below – make a comment below if you want Greg to make more episodes:

Finding the right wine for everyday Cantonese meals like dim sum can prove difficult because it has to take on an array of foods like seafood, meats, vegetables, sauces, herbs, spices and starches…often all at the same time!

Based on this, many experts propose white wines but, thanks to my recent experience with Filippo Chia, a second generation winemaker and owner of Tuscan Castello Romitorio who came to HK to host one of the food and wine-paired events organized by m.a.x. concepts, Cottage Vineyards and myself – I would like to propose 3 versatile red wines which, dare I say, may work even better!

reknowned artist and winemaker Sandro Chia (L)  Filippo Chia (R)

Castello Romitorio Morellino di Scansano DOCG 2007 (85%Sangiovese/15%Cab. Sauvignon): Brilliant clear garnet, nose of fresh flowers, earth and plum. On the palate, bitter cherries end in a steady silky finish. This wine pairs well with (1) pea sprouts stir-fried in garlic (2) mushroom, beef or pork rice noodle wraps (Cheung Fun) with a light soya sauce (3) steamed prawns dipped in soy sauce with chilis and (4) fish steamed with ginger and green onion, bathing in hot oil and soya sauce.

Castello Romitorio Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2007 (Sangiovese Grosso): Ruby red, the wine carries a soft richness that balances the bouquet of red berries, tobacco and violets. Its beautiful structure balances with juicy viscosity and persistent finish, pairing well with (1) any of the above while accentuating (2) the juiciness of a clay pot braised duck with mushrooms and (3) fried glutinuous rice with Chinese winter sausages.

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004 (Sangiovese Grosso): King of the Tuscan reds, this is the epitome of Sangiovese. Boasting 92 points – Robert Parker and 93 points – Wine Spectator, Filippo’s wine has a bouquet of dried flowers and berries, velvety rich with balanced tannins and a long finish. This wine pairs beautifully with (1) slow cooked clay pot lamb and (2) beef dry-fried in a dark soy sauce with green onion, mushrooms and flat noodles (Gan Chow Ngau Ho).

Damon Yuen is a Certified Sommelier and Court of Master Sommeliers. He is a Wine & Spirits Educator, Writer and Consultant with over 27 years of experience in the Hong Kong food and beverage sector. He regularly teaches at the Chinese University of Hong Kong and PEAK VTC and has his own wine blog.

He can be contacted at 9037 9589 or via email: damon_yuentks@yahoo.com.hk

Described by some as the Nectar of the Gods, Sauternes is a sweet Bordeaux wine made from special grapes affected by the botrytis cinerea (a kind of fungus) arising from the fog of the Ciron River running across the appellation of Sauternes. Its traditional pairings are Foie Gras and Roquefort Cheese, but for many of us with a Chinese palate who prefer something sweet and find it difficult to digest Western cheeses, could there be an alternative marriage for us?

I finally discovered such possibilities in my recent encounter with Catherine Gachet, owner and winemaker of boutique Sauternes producer, Clos Dady. Catherine takes unusual care in the entire wine-making process of her Sauternes involving:

• Picking the freshest botrytised berries 7 times a year
• Employing only women in the harvest who exercise greater patience and delicacy
• Barrel Fermentation; a more labour intensive method used by only 5 out of 150 Sauternes  producers. The result is a much more natural wine with less need for filtration
• Keeping residual sugar by stopping fermentation. This is done through a reduction in temperature rather than using large doses of CO2.

The result is an unusually elegant Sauternes with a breezy freshness evident in Clos Dady Sauternes ‘Château de Bastard’ 2007 (Sémillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadelle). Made from a blend of both golden and fully-botrytised berries, the wine is a brilliant pale gold colour with a complex floral nose of lemon, dried mango and apricots. Aromatic and elegant, it has a well-balanced sugar-acid tone and unusual minerality with a fresh, clean, long finish.

I have paired this wine with “har gow” dim sum (steamed shrimp dumplings), Vietnamese rice paper rolls, Thai crab salad and even raw oysters with a pinch of lime and lemon grass and have noticed a dramatic increase in the freshness and minerality of the seafood, leaving a beautiful savoury feeling in the mouth. The sweetness of Catherine’s Sauternes blends seamlessly with the natural sweetness of these “Fruits of the Sea”. Add a little sweet and sour Thai chili sauce or Chiu Chow chili sauce and the result sings. This is the new marriage made in heaven for the Asian Palate.

Damon Yuen is a Certified Sommelier and Court of Master Sommeliers. He is a Wine & Spirits Educator, Writer and Consultant with over 27 years of experience in the Hong Kong food and beverage sector. He regularly teaches at the Chinese University of Hong Kong and PEAK VTC and has his own wine blog.

Ice wine isn’t your typical dessert wine. This high-end vintage is made from grapes which became frozen on the vine, creating a more concentrated and much sweeter-tasting wine. It’s believed the tradition of creating wine from frozen grapes dates back to Roman times, a culture which certainly knew something about decadent dining.

Canada and Germany are perhaps the best-known producers of high-end ice wines, with Canada – and in particular Ontario – being the largest ice wine manufacturers internationally. The fruitier, refreshing nature of ice wine makes it a perfect complement for sweet dishes, especially great for pairing with dessert.

Ice wine vintages are usually produced by Riesling grapes in Germany and Vidal and Cabernet Franc grapes in Canada. Many ice wines are pale yellow to amber in color, though some red varieties are produced. The high acidity and slightly lower alcohol content of ice wine keeps the sweet taste from becoming overpowering.

Some of the most delicious ice wines are well balanced in terms of sweetness, and have an intense beautiful aroma that is clean and complex.  If you are looking to try ice wine, we recommend Inniskillin Icewines as they are known to produce excellent quality ice wines and have one of the biggest distributions in the world, making them easy to find even in Hong Kong.

The Inniskillin Gold Oak-Aged Vidal ice wine is a deliciously rich sweet wine with an aromatic bouquet of apple blossom, apricot, fig and honey.  For something fresh and distinctively different, try the Inniskillin Sparkling Vidal ice wine. With a nice golden color and bouquet notes of nectarines, pear and apricot, on the palate it has a delicate and lively effervescence, with a clean and well balanced sweetness. It received a 91 points rating from Wine Spectator in 2008 and has won numerous awards each year.

How much?

• Gold Oak-Aged Vidal Icewine, 2006 – HK$600
• Vidal Sparkling Icewine, 2006 – HK$600
• Jackson-Triggs Reserve Vidal Icewine, 2006 – HK$486

Where to buy?

ASC Fine Wines, call James at 3923 6790

Choosing the appropriate wine can be a challenge for any host. The task for those who would like to serve traditional Sichuan dishes, however, is made doubly difficult. That’s because the cuisine’s deliciously unique complexity makes it notoriously difficult to pair. As a result, many hosts default to sweet, white wines or fruity light reds – most of which offer a weak complement, at best, to the spicy cuisine.

But serving a great wine with Sichuan food is not impossible. You just need a basic understanding of the flavor profiles. Chinon Wines’ upcoming winemaker dinner entitled The Challenge of Sichuan Hua Jiao (Sichuan Peppercorn), aims to help you do just that – addressing this mightily aromatic and full-flavored cuisine with dry, very tannic reds from their own Great Chinon House of Couly-Dutheil.

Attend the dinner, which is HK$480 per person and is led by Chinon’s own Cristophe Surget, at 7:00pm on Tuesday 22 September at the Mask of Si Chun (KCR East, Tsim Sha Tsui Station, Kowloon).

For more information and to view the menu, please see event details, here. Seats are available on a first come first served basis (only 30 available). You can call 2395-1293 or email here for more details.

The full menu is below:

The Challenge of Sichuan Huajiao, Chinon Wines

Winemaker Dinner featuring the Wines of Great Chinon House Couly-Dutheil

• The Mask of Si Chun (Shop no. 33, KCR East TST Station, Kowloon)
• Tuesday 22nd September, 2009
• 7:00pm: Reception;
• 7:30pm: Dinner
• HK$480.00 NET per person.

Couly-Dutheil ‘Brut de Franc’ Rose NV (Cab. Franc)

迎賓五小碟] Welcoming Selection of Five Appetizers:

• 蒜泥黑豚肉Karobuta Pork with Garlic Chili sauce
• 辣醬大豆芽 Bean Sprouts Salad
• 麻辣鮮花枝片 Spicy Cuttlefish
• 陳皮牛粒 Spicy Beef Shank flavored with Mandarin Peel
• 香辣爆軟殼蟹 Softshell Crabs with Special Spices

***

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Blanc ‘Les Chanteaux’ 2007 (Chenin Blanc)

蝦仁白雪 Shrimps with Egg-white

***

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Rose 2007 (Cab. Franc)

宮保雞丁 Kung Po Chicken

***

Couly-Dutheil Saumur Champigny Rouge ‘Les Moulins de Turquant’ 2006 (Cab. Franc)

黑椒腸粉 Rice Noodle Rolls with Black Pepper Sauce

***

Couly-Dutheil Chinon ‘Domaine Rene Couly’ 2004 (Cab. Franc)

干燒鱔片 Eel with Ginger and Chili sauce

***

Couly-Dutheil Chinon ‘Clos de l’Olive 2002 (Cab. Franc)

茶樹菇爆香鴨 Woh-fried Duck with Yellow Mushrooms

***

Couly-Dutheil Chinon ‘Clos de l’Echo Crescendo’2003 (Cabernet Franc)

水煮牛臉頰 Simmered Beef Cheek with Hot Chili Broth

迷你巨石五豐收(辣) Spicy Great Harvest

***

Interdit de Couly-Dutheil 2008 (Late Harvest and Botrytised Chenin Blanc)

士多啤梨拔絲 Candied Strawberry

Famous for their white wine – especially Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Fruialano – the Schiopetto family has been in the wine business for three generations.

Join the estate’s Marketing Manager Cristian Maddlena for their most renowned vintages paired with the eclectic New York cuisine of RED SoHo. One night only – don’t miss the chance to toast “La Dolce Vita” with the Schiopettos!

Details:

• When: Tuesday 22 September
• Time: 7pm
• Price: HKD550 + 10% per head
• Reservations: Call 8199 8189 for reservations – spaces are limited.

RED SoHo

• 2/f, Kinwick Centre, 32 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong

Terms & Conditions

• Pure Cardholder discount applies and Pure Card number must be quoted upon reservation

The Schiopetto wine story

Giorgio Schiopetto, who owned Ai Pompieri, a famous old inn in Udine, passed on to his son Mario his love of good wines. Before turning to wine-making, Mario Schiopetto traveled far and wide in Europe in search of quality wines in the famed German and French wine cellars. It was German technology blended with French finesse that enabled him to find his niche in wine-making. Mario launched his wine business in 1965 in Gorizia, today his children Maria Angela, Carlo and Giorgio, carries on his legacy.

Mario Schiopetto excels in his craft in producing outstanding white wines from the northeastern region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia and is considered the founding father of the modern wine-making region of Friuli. He is credited for his contribution to the Italy’s burgeoning wine scene.

Autumn is upon us and there is no better way to celebrate the harvest then mooncake. Berry Bros & Rudd, Britain’s oldest wine distributor (and one of the few wine merchants who can boast about trading from the same shop in London for over 300 years), has come up with 5 of their wines to pair with your mooncake this fall.

Traditional mooncake is dense and sweet and should be paried with full-bodied, sweet wines such as Sauternes, Sherries, ports and sweeter varieties of Champagne. Try one of the following wines ranging from HK$139-HK$1,368.

1. Berrys’ “Bishop’s Mead”, Oloroso Cream Sherry, Spain, HK$139

Bishop’s Mead is a rich, full and satisfying sherry with an intense, complex, nutty nose followed by raisins and caramel and a delicious sweet finish.

2. Berrys’ Sauternes, Ch. Suduiraut, Bordeaux, France, HK$146

A truly divine pudding wine, wonderfully sweet but never cloying, possessing brilliant freshness derived from crisp balancing acidity.

3. Noble Sauvage, Marlborough, Isabel Estate, Marlborough, New Zealand, HK$299

With intense and alluring aromas, concentrated nectar, pure honeysuckle and notes of truffle, the palate is generous and weighty yet wonderfully soft and rounded. Layers include a mid- palate of tangy citrus and minerality combined with ripe apricots and tropical fruit flavours.

4. Laurent-Perrier Rosé NV, Champagne, France, HK$788

A precise and crisp aroma which hints of soft red fruits, gives way to a palate of intense
flavours including strawberries, raspberries and wild cherries.

5. Laurent-Perrier le Grande Siécle La Cuvée NV, Champagne, France, HK$1,368

Starry bright, with a brilliant yellow hue, this sublime Champagne shows subtle hints of honey, hazelnuts, grilled almonds and fresh pastry which make this a perfect wine to go with the finest delicacies. Powerful yet well rounded, this wine is rich and savory, finishing with a deliciously fresh touch.