Champagne Supernova: Ulysse Collin
The new Champagne star.
The brightest new star to emerge from the Grower Champagne movement is Olivier Collin, in the small village of Congy, south of the Cote des Blancs.
Inspired by Jacques Selosse after working with him in 2001, he described it as “one of those encounters that changes your life”. Spurred into action, in 2003 he reacquired 4.5 Ha of family vineyards that had been rented out for years to Pommery.
As for the style and the rule of winemaking, Collin insists on developing his wines in a natural and non-interventionist way. All fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts, which can take a remarkably long time to complete: six to eight months is not at all unusual for Olivier Collin, and even when tasting vins clairs in June or July, they are typically still in the middle of their alcoholic fermentations.
Both the fermentation and malolactic are carried out in three- to six-year old barriques, and the wine is neither fined nor filtered before bottling, which takes place in the fall after the harvest.
Only one wine is produced by Ulysse Collin – a Blanc de Blanc (Chardonnay) which comes from a small 1.2 hectare parcel called “Les Perrières”, (producing around 5000 bottles a year).
The 2006 (second vintage) Extra Brut is complete and intensely vinous, finishing with long, flowery length and a brisk, flinty sense of chalkiness, emphasizing the expression of terroir over fruit flavor.
Recently, a 2006 Blanc de Noirs (Pinot Noir) cuvee has been released to very selected high end restaurants. The next release of this wine will be in 2012 with the 2008 vintage,(500bts cuvee only).
Where to buy?
- L’IMPERATRICE Limited, 7/F Yellow Building, 8 On Wo Lane, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: 2850 5544
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